The clet'che and the carnavaleux's kit
At Dunkirk Carnival, you don't come as a half-dressed spectator: you put on your clet'che, the carnavaleux's costume, which becomes your identity for the season. Many people keep the same one year after year, refine it, and are recognised by it in the bande. Here's how to put yours together, and everything you need to bring to last from morning until the small hours.
From the "ma tante" to the reworked sailor
Originally, the rule was simple: men dress as women, and women dress as whatever they like. The "ma tante", with her fur coat, flowery hat and lipstick, remains the emblem of the carnival. But these days another look has become just as common in the bandes: the reworked sailor. A suit jacket over a striped sailor top, a kilt, lace-up boots and faux-fur leg warmers. A nod to the Iceland fishermen, with warmth and comfort thrown in to help you last the whole day. Between the two, anything goes, as long as your clet'che is truly yours.
Because that's the one real rule: everyone has their own clet'che. Copying another carnavaleux's outfit is frowned upon, and some costumes are the signature of a particular bande or association. Let your imagination run, and just steer clear of political or religious themes: carnival is a party for everyone.
The parts of a clet'che
The fur coat. Faux fur preferably, it gives the costume a touch of glamour and cuts the February wind. Some regulars even sew a small patch bearing a beer brand's colours onto the back.
The hat. The bigger, more flowery and more colourful, the better: feathers, badges, pin badges, soft toys, bottle caps... Two tips from regulars: watch the weight, and don't forget a chin strap, or it will fly off at the first chahut.
The umbrella. The berguenaere, held up high, helps you spot each other in the crowd. The more colourful the better, and some carry the Flemish lion, black on a yellow field, which you'll also see on clet'ches and flags.
The accessories. Embroidered patches to sew on, joke badges, boas, fishnet tights, gloves: it's in the details that your clet'che becomes truly yours.
Make-up
Here, make-up is preferred over masks, and lipstick is essential, especially for the men! Cream make-up, glitter gel and false eyelashes do the job, as long as you pick products actually meant for the face. Not confident doing it yourself? Ask a friend who knows how. And pack make-up remover wipes for the day after: glitter has a way of sticking around.
Where to find your clet'che
Tradition says: reuse and repurpose. Charity and second-hand shops (there's an Emmaüs on rue Vauban, in Dunkirk) are full of fur coats and clothes just waiting to be reworked. Dunkirk market even has its own carnival corner, nicknamed Cafougnette. And for make-up, wigs and accessories, several specialist shops around the area switch into carnival mode from January onwards.
Should you wash your clet'che?
It's THE big question at the end of every season. Some swear they've never washed theirs in twenty years, and that it doesn't smell of anything at all. Others say that's a myth, and that a clet'che absolutely does smell! Between the herrings forgotten in pockets and the nights at the ball, we'll let you be the judge.
Gearing up for the chahut
A tip from the carnavaleux: in the chahut, it's easy to lose a shoe. And a lost shoe brings your carnival to a screeching halt. When it happens in the bande, carnavaleux throw it high in an arc, so it can be seen, towards the edge of the street, so its owner can find it again. Better to avoid that altogether: go for lace-up boots, tied firmly. Same goes for hats: fit a chin strap or some way of securing it, or it will fly off at the first chahut. Everything about the chahut is here.
The carnavaleux checklist
- Lace-up boots, closed and tied firmly.
- A breathable thermal base layer under the clet'che, but not three jumpers: you get very warm in the chahuts.
- A hat with a chin strap, and your umbrella.
- Long-lasting make-up, and wipes for the day after.
- A reusable cup, with a carabiner to clip it on.
- A zipped pouch under the clet'che rather than a backpack: ID, phone, a little cash.
- Earplugs, especially for children.
- Water, and scope out the toilets from the start: bars along the route, plus more and more street toilets set up each year.
- Leave anything you'd hate to lose back at the apartment. And no glass!
Your carnival headquarters
At both Loucé and Adélise, you put your clet'che on and you're already in the party, on foot: the seafront one minute away, place Turenne two minutes, the Kursaal five.